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| 1860's Gentlemen's double breasted shawl collar vest,Historical Fashion Closet Friday..a brand new acquisition from the Beth Miller Hall collection. It appears to be a size 34 chest. Extremely narrow welts (3/8") on waist and upper watch pocket. Top stitching is extremely fine, giving the impression of machine top stitching. Under collar and back of glazed brown cotton twill, lining of tabby weave, glazed natural cotton. |
Side view, showing imbalance of pattern collapsing in back. |
Rear view, showing misfit/collapse of back pattern... |
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| Correction of collapsing back, from side. |
Correction of collapsing back from wearer's left side. |
24 Ligne buttons, self covered and matched to pattern of the brocade. |
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| Inside lining, showing self fabric at bottom edge instead of leather. |
Rear belt back stitching is thru-n-thru. SUPER FINE back stitch. |
Underarm piecing. Silk is shattering. Brown cotton twill back. Note that fabric pattern is not matched to the main body fabric. |
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| Front, showing sweep when closed, and fullness in chest area |
Shoulder lining pieced and inset on both sides. Very fine backstitch along armhole. |
Piecing of rear collar. |
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| The imbalance of the pattern is evident when the vest is placed on the workbench. It kicks open. The chest is heavily padded to compensate, but does not correct the misfit. |
Detail of welt pocket |
Upper shoulder piecing. This and the underam would not be visible when the vest is being worn under a coat. |
